Over the summer, I had the pleasure of traveling around Iceland, which has become an annual trip for me in the last few years. To my surprise, I always get to experience something new each time. East Iceland has a lot of hidden gems, so don’t skip out on making time for this area.
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Living in the Icelandic Highlands
In some of my other episodes about the Icelandic highlands, you might have heard me say that no one lives in this area of the country even though it consists of about 80% of the land mass of Iceland. The reason for this is that the Icelandic highlands do not have a lot of fertile land, they are higher up in elevation which means it can be much colder and the weather is even more variable there. Well, there was a time when some people did live in the highlands.
Saenautasel's Fascinating History
Starting in 1843, some Icelanders chose to live among the gorgeous landscapes of Jökuldalsheiði heath, which is known as Sænautasel farm. In 1875, the ferocious eruption of the Askja caldera forced the abandonment of this farm. But five years later, the former inhabitants returned and rebuilt.
Over the years volcanic onslaughts and other natural disruptions challenged those living there but they persisted. Like many houses in Iceland during this time the buildings were made of turf. Turf houses are literally made of sod, turf and stone stacked in an ingenious way to provide shelter and insulation from harsh Icelandic weather.
One of the major downfalls of living in a turf house is that they need to be reconstructed because the material can wear away due to the elements. Granted, that happens with most materials, but it can happen faster with turf. So, the turf houses underwent several reconstructions but never lost their charm. 1943 was the last year that anyone lived full-time in these houses. The allure of the more modern world beckoned people down from the highlands.
The Rebirth of Saenautasel Turf Houses
The most recent rebirth of the turf houses was in 1992 by descendants of the last residents. A few of houses were turned into a living museum and lovely café. I visited Sænautasel on a rainy and foggy day with my Icelandic friend Hrafndís Bara, who grew up in East Iceland.
After parking in the lot, we were greeted by Icelandic sheep at the gate to enter. Most sheep here are not fond of people but you can tell that these sheep have grown accustomed to interacting with humans. They acted more like dogs than sheep and it was cute. Since it was summer, the first thing I noticed was how lush and green the roofs of the turf houses look.
A Cozy Cafe in the Icelandic Highlands
The first house we entered was the café and I was enamored with it right away. One thing to remember is that the doorways of these old houses are short, so watch your head when you enter!
It is so cozy and the setup is lovely. There are long tables decorated with table clothes, lit candles, teacups, tea kettles and more. The walls are lined with traditional Icelandic sweaters (lopapeysa) for sale and interesting knick knacks are around. Because it was a bit chilly that day, they even have the fire place going, which added to how cozy it felt.
In the café, they serve lummur (basically a pancake), coffee, tea, and hot chocolate.
Vegan Food in the Middle of Nowhere
The most astonishing thing is that they had vegan pancakes and hot chocolate! I almost hugged the lady making the food because I was so excited. The food did not disappoint! The panckaes have a nice crispy outside and moist inside. Traditionally, Icelanders put raisins in their lummur but you can have them without it.
Exploring Saenautasel's Turf House
The other house, just steps away from the café, is where you can see how people lived between 1843 and 1943. The kitchen, pantry, and storage for certain animals are fascinating. The earthy floors, and walls of rock make the place look like it is in a time capsule. It can be quite dark in there so make sure to watch your step.
One area of the house is an actual apartment that people can rent to stay overnight. It’s small but very nice and you sleep in a loft area. I feel like that would be the ultimate way to experience being back in time, even though there are modern things in that section of the house.
While the charm of the place has been kept intact as much as possible, there have been some modern upgrades for the comfort of the family that stays here over the summer and guests. For instance, there is running water and modern toilets.
When to Visit Saenautasel Turf Houses & Cafe
If you would like to visit Sænautasel, it is only available during the summer months from June to September. This place is such a hidden gem that the owners only have their website in Icelandic because that is who mainly comes to visit. I have a link to their site in the description. I recommend using Google Translate if you need help. Luckily, there are not a lot of words on the page and the owners speak English well.
If you are into fishing, the Sænaut lake is about 20 km from the turf houses and is said to have a lot of Char living in it. You can either camp nearby or stay at the turf houses. While I have never been fishing in Iceland, I am pretty sure you need a fishing card to do this activity.
These lovely turf houses and cafe are only an hour‘s drive from Egilsstaðir, which is the largest town in East Iceland. Most visitors drive through Egilsstaðir when visiting this part of the country.
How to Get to Saenautasel
To reach Sænatuasel, you can have to drive for a short distance on F907. For those that have listened to my Ultimate Guide for Renting a Car in Iceland episode, you know that you need a 4×4 vehicle that is insured for F-roads to drive on them. If you have not checked out that episode, I highly recommend that you do. I packed it with all the info you need to make an informed decision about which kind of car to rent for your adventure in Iceland.
Renting a car in Iceland can get quite expensive during the summer months because the demand jumps up. You can use my code Iceland10 when you book with Go Car Rental Iceland to save 10% on your full cost. Also, if the company is running any promotional % on their site that is higher than the 10% from my code, they will match whatever that that % is when you use my code. I recieve a small commission for those who inputs my code, so your usage of iceland10 helps to support All Things Iceland and the creation of episodes like this.
Sænautasel offers an untouched slice of Icelandic heritage. Whether you’re a history buff, a literary enthusiast, or simply in search of beauty and serenity, Sænautasel promises an experience like no other. If it fits into the time you have in Iceland, I hope you check it out.
Random Fact of the Episode
One awesome random fact is that it’s said Halldór Laxness, Iceland’s only Nobel laureate was deeply inspired by the life and struggles of the people that lived at Sænautasel that this place inspired him when he wrote “Sjálfstætt fólk – Independent People”.
Icelandic Word of the Episode
Sænautasel literally means a place to call home by a lake called Sænaut. It is said to be a huge monster that is sort of like a whale. It is said to be somewhat friendly. One funny story I read is that people used to ride on them back in the day during summertime. Maybe when you visit you might spot one.
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