Hveradalir is one of Iceland’s largest geothermal areas, but it’s tucked away in Iceland’s highlands. To access anywhere in the highlands of this country, you must drive on F-roads, which are unpaved, rough and often require you to cross rivers.
I’m planning to do a whole episode on F-roads because it’s important to understand how to navigate them safely, but just know that some rivers that run across F-roads are so deep that they can drown the engine if you don’t have a snorkel and a modified vehicle to cross them.
Thankfully, access to Hveradalir geothermal area does not require a large river crossing. I dare to say that it is more like a small stream that you need to drive over but it’s totally doable for a regular 4×4 vehicle.
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Before I get into why Hveradalir is more than worth a visit, I would like to thank the sponsor of this episode. I partnered with Go Car Rental Iceland to drive into the highlands so you can see an example of an F-road and to feature a drop-dead gorgeous place that is easy to access in this part of the country.
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Why Hveradalir Geothermal Area in Iceland is Worth Visiting
Hveradalir geothermal area is nestled in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range in the central highlands of Iceland. I also created a YouTube video that has a lot of insanely beautiufl drone shots, so feel free to check that out too.
The various colors of Hveradalir – yellow, green, orange, and red – make this place look like a painting. But what really brings it to life is the steam rising from the earth and the warm water flowing throughout the area. All of it combines in a magical way that makes you feel like you stepped onto another planet.
How to Get to Hveradalir Geothermal Area
The most important thing to know is that you must drive a 4×4 vehicle for this adventure. The only way you can visit Hveradalir in a vehicle is if it’s a 4×4 because you must drive on the roads F-35 and F-347.
Only 4×4 cars are insured for driving on F-roads in Iceland. If you drive a 2WD car there and something happens to your car, you are fully responsible for the cost of repairing or replacing it. I highly discourage you from taking that chance. F-35 road runs from north to south in the highlands, so you can access this place regardless of you drive from either of those directions.
I used a lovely blue Jeep from Go Car Rental Iceland to get there from Reykjavík. In addition to the cool features in the car, I love blue, so that was a cool cherry on top.
From Reykjavík to Hveradalir
It takes 3.5 hours to access Hveradalir if you drive from Reykjavík
From Akureyri to Hveradalir
It takes 4 hours from Akureyri, which is in north Iceland
Spectacular Sites Along the Way to Hveradalir, If You Travel from Reykjavík
If you are driving from Reykjavík, you take the same route for the Golden Circle, which includes Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, and Gullfoss waterfall.
You can make a busy day out of it, if you have not been to the Golden Circle, and go to all these sites. Most people who drive this route stop at Gullfoss because they don’t have the appropriate car to keep going and/or they don’t know where the road that keeps going leads to. I feel like it makes Hveradalir a hidden gem.
Once you have passed Gullfoss waterfall, you notice less and less cars. It probably feels like what Iceland used to be like before a lot of tourists. At some point, you will see a sign called Kerlingarfjöll F-35 pointing to the right. That is where you are going. Also, Google Maps is accurate, so you can just follow that.
A Highlands Waterfall, Mountain Lodge & a Gorgeous Canyon, Oh, my!
There are gorgeous mountains and at one point you can see Langjökull glacier in the distance. I stopped at Gýgjarfoss waterfall. It’s right next to the road and is a nice place to stretch your legs and enjoy the sounds of gushing water.
You’ll see a bunch of huts and houses called the Kerlingarfjöll Resort. They were doing construction when I went but it looks like they will have a decent amount of accommodations available next summer for people who want to stay overnight. I didn‘t have time to do it on this trip, but just about a 1 mile walk from the lodge is a geothermal hot pool.
You drive past these lodge and continue up the hill for some time until you get to Hveradalir. One thing I must point out, is the canyon to your right as you drive up the hill. I‘m not sure what the name of it is, but it blew my mind. I legit stood there in awe and couldn‘t believe that I‘d not heard or read anywhere about this gorgeous nature stop when I was researching more about this area.
The road can be pretty rough and a little steep in some spots. What‘s lovely is that you can see Hveradalir appear in the distance. It almost felt like I was dreaming when it came into view.
Conveniently, there is a parking lot there. You‘ve arrived!!
Hveradalir is Not Just for Hiking Enthusiasts
You don‘t have to be an avid hiker to enjoy this area but some level of hiking experience is recommended. There are clearly marked paths and some steps installed in places where it‘s a steeper incline.
There are many paths available, so you can hike for hours or just for 30 minutes. It‘s totally up to you but you get a great view of the place in almost every direction that you go.
This place will remind you of Landmannalaugar but it’s even easier to get to and the hike in the rhyolite colored mountains begins instantly. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love Landmannalaugar but it is a different vibe and both places are worth a visit. Plus, Landmannalaugar is the start to the famous Laugavegur trail, which attracts many hikers from around the world each year.
I even saw some people that drove to the parking lot of Hveradalir and only walked to the edge to look at the area. They never actually hiked. While I personally prefer to hike in places, I understand that not everyone enjoys it or has the energy for it, depending on what they have already been up to that day.
I just feel like you get the full enjoyment out of this place by exploring the different paths and walking over foot bridges that have steam wafting up from the warm water stream beneath them.
What to Wear in the Icelandic Highlands
Always expect the highlands of Iceland to be cooler in temperature. It’s higher up altitude wise and the weather can be even more volatile there. Because it‘s a geothermal area, there is a decent amount of mud. The moisture from the steam and any rain/snow contributes to some intense mud in certain areas.
I remember walking and feeling my boot get a little stuck in the mud as I walked. I was able to pull it out but it made walking slightly more challenging. Of course, it was a little slippery too.
I recommend having hiking boots with some water resistance and really good tread. Also, pack layers with you. If you need any help with what to bring to Iceland, you can download my free Ultimate Packing Checklist.
Important Things to Keep in Mind When Traveling to Hveradalir
- Check the weather and road conditions before leaving.
- Have a full tank of gas and food. There are no gas stations in the highlands. There was a café along the road, but it was closed so I suggest having your own food.
- Have proper clothing and hiking boots and maybe some walking sticks – can be very muddy.
- Watch where you step. The water can be very hot in this area, and you might get scolded. Also, there are some steep drop offs depending on which hiking path you take. I felt safe everywhere I walked but just something to keep in mind.
- You can make it into an overnight stop, if the Kerlingafjöll Mountain Resort is open. It was closed when I went there this summer because they are doing renovations.
Before moving on the Icelandic word of the episode, I’d like to thank Go Car Rental Iceland for sponsoring this episode. As a reminder, you can get 10% off your full rental car cost when you use my code Iceland10 at the time of your booking.
Icelandic word of the episode
Hveradalir – valley of the hot springs
Kerlingarfjöll – old woman or old woman troll mountains
Random fact of the episode
Mt. Kerlingarfjöll got their name from a troll woman, Kerling.
Kerling in Icelandic is both a derogatory name for an old woman, but also a troll woman.
Kerling might have been the daughter of the fire-giant Surtur in the Surtshellir Cave from Norse Mythology but I have seen that written anywhere besides at the on-site location.
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